Carrageenan in Skin Care: What It Is & How It Works
Carrageenan is a processed ingredient derived from a type of red seaweed called Chondrus crispus, or “Irish moss.” It is found in a number of skin care and food products, though there is an important distinction between cosmetic-grade and food-grade carrageenan. Cosmetic-grade carrageenan is primarily used in skin care products for its ability to give formulations a smooth texture and stability, as well as hydrating the skin.
You will find this ingredient in everything from moisturizers and cleansers to shampoos and toothpastes. Learn more about what carrageenan is and its benefits and drawbacks when used in skin care.
This ingredient is commonly used to enhance the texture and stabilization of skin care formulations.
It also helps to add moisture to the skin.
It can clog pores and may cause redness or rashes in those with an allergy or sensitivity to this ingredient.
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What is carrageenan
What Is Carrageenan?
Carrageenan is a polysaccharide extracted from a type of red seaweed commonly known as Irish moss. This seaweed is harvested and then processed to extract carrageenan, which is used widely in both the food and skincare industries.
In skin care, carrageenan is widely-used as a thickener, emulsifier, and stabilizer in products that need a smooth texture, such as moisturizers, gels, and serums, or to keep ingredients from separating. Additionally, carrageenan is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water, so it can also help to hydrate the skin.
Active Compounds
Some of the key compounds that give this ingredient the ability to smooth skin care formulations and hydrate the skin include:
Sulfated polysaccharides. These sugar-based molecules have sulfate groups attached, which help carrageenan to bind water and form gels. This compound also contributes to the hydrating properties and textural stability of this ingredient.
Galactose residues. Galactose is a monosaccharide, or a simple sugar, and contributes to this ingredient’s hydrophilic nature by attracting and retaining moisture.
3,6-anhydro-D-galactose. This is also a sugar derivative that enhances the gel-forming ability and flexibility of carrageenan that helps to stabilize and thicken formulations.
Benefits of Carrageenan
Benefits
Carrageenan is often used in skin care products for these purposes:
Moisturization. Its water-binding properties help to improve skin hydration.
Improved texture and spreadability. This ingredient improves the viscosity and spreadability of skin care formulations, creating smooth formulations.
Stabilization. It also acts as an emulsifier, preventing the separation of ingredients in creams and lotions and enhancing product stability.
Drawbacks
Some people are allergic to carrageenan, which can result in redness, rashes, hives, and other signs of skin allergies. Carrageenan in skin care products may also contribute to breakouts, since it is considered a comedogenic ingredient.
Related: Carrageenan in Food Products
There has been a lot of hype lately about avoiding carrageenan in food products. Food-grade carrageenan is added to many different food products as a thickening and stabilizing agent. However, some studies have linked this ingredient to digestive issues, including inflammation, bloating, and irritable bowel syndrome. Concerns have also been raised about its potential to degrade into poligeenan, a substance associated with gastrointestinal problems and an increased risk of colon cancer (3).
While the FDA still maintains that carrageenan is generally recognized as safe (GRAS), people at a greater risk for GI issues or colon cancer may choose to avoid or limit this ingredient in food products.
When used in topical products, however, carrageenan does not come with these same risks.
Skin Care Products with Carrageenan
Carrageenan can be found in a wide variety of skin care and personal care products, but it is most commonly found in products aimed at adding hydration, like those shown below.
Bottom Line
Carrageenan is a multifunctional ingredient in skin care, offering benefits like improved texture and spreadability, stabilization, and moisturization. While concerns exist regarding its use in food products, this ingredient is generally considered safe and effective when used topically. If you have a carrageenan allergy or are prone to breakouts, however, this ingredient may not be right for you.
Be sure to find out your skin type before investing in skin care products so you can be sure they are a good match for your skin.
