What do comedogenic and non-comedogenic mean? We asked a dermatologist to explain
Mastering the terminology surrounding skin care can be difficult, and “comedogenic” and “non-comedogenic” are probably two of the most popular yet confusing words. You’ve probably seen these terms on the packaging of many skin care products, but what do they mean?
We’re here to bring you information from a leading board-certified dermatologist. Read on for her helpful insights on comedogenic and non-comedogenic ingredients, including what they are, how they affect your skin, and who should use them.
Meet the Expert
Vivian Chin, MD, MPH, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics.
Melanie Palm, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and plastic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in Solana Beach, California.
What does comedogenic mean?
If you see the word “comedogenic” on a product label, it means the product may cause breakouts. “Comedogenics are areas in the pores or hair follicles where bacteria, oil, and dead skin cells typically accumulate, which can lead to acne,” says Dr. chin.
Blackheads and whiteheads aren’t the only potential downsides to comedogenic products. “These substances can also weaken the skin barrier in certain skin types, leading to inflammation and worsening of existing skin conditions,” Dr. Palmer adds.
It’s important to note that many comedogenic skin care products don’t have the word “comedogenic” on their labels, as this suggests to people that certain ingredients may clog pores and cause acne, something most brands don’t want to advertise.
According to Dr. Palmer, some of the comedogenic ingredients in Palmer may benefit people with dehydrated skin by providing higher levels of moisture. However, comedogenic products aren’t the best choice for people with acne-prone skin.
What does non-comedogenic mean?
Many products are labeled “non-comedogenic,” according to Dr. Palmer. Palm “tells consumers that every ingredient in skin care products is non-comedogenic, meaning they are less likely to clog pores. Non-comedogenic ingredients in skin care products are designed to prevent pore clogging and include most soaps or cleansers, hyaluronic acid, peptides, antioxidants, and other water-based ingredients.”
She explains that while non-comedogenic products are generally better, you should still be careful when introducing new products into your routine. “It’s important to note that even if a product contains a non-comedogenic ingredient, it may still cause acne or inflammation, depending on your skin type or existing skin condition,” Palm adds.
What are comedogenic ingredients?
A number of different ingredients in skin care products can contribute to clogged pores. Chin tells us that comedogenic ingredients in skin care products tend to have more oil-based chemicals or ingredients. Palm says some of the most common comedogenic ingredients include beeswax, coconut oil, cocoa butter, palm oil, petroleum, seaweed extracts, polysaccharide acids from seaweed, and dimethicone (a silicone-based polymer often used in sunscreen).
When shopping for skin care products, keep in mind that not all comedogenic ingredients are created equal, and some are more likely to cause pore clogging than others. “The comedogenicity of these ingredients can vary greatly depending on the formulation and how refined they are,” Palm says. “Talk to your dermatologist about the best regimen for your skin care needs.”
Who Should Avoid Comedogenic Ingredients?
“People who have acne or easily clogged pores should avoid comedogenic skin care ingredients,” Chin says, adding that they may not be a good choice for people with sensitive or oily skin.
“People with combination skin should also be careful with comedogenic ingredients because the pores in oily and dry areas are different sizes,” Palm says. “Oily areas have larger pores that clog more easily, making comedogenic ingredients more likely to cause breakouts in those areas.”
What Are Non-Comedogenic Ingredients?
If your skin is prone to acne, Palm recommends looking for products with non-comedogenic ingredients, such as beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), bakuchiol, and adapalene. If you have dry skin, Chin recommends looking for a moisturizer or serum with a higher oil-to-water ratio.
“People with oily skin and acne should generally choose products with beta hydroxy acids, which reduce excess oil, or ingredients like benzoyl peroxide,” adds Chin. “Benzoyl peroxide can be a bit drying, so if your skin is only moderately oily, you may want to start with a gentler formula.”
Final Verdict
Comedogenic ingredients in skincare products can cause breakouts, clogged pores, or hair follicles, which can lead to acne. Non-comedogenic ingredients, on the other hand, are less likely to cause clogged pores, although they can still be a possibility in some cases. “By avoiding comedogenic products, people with acne can help reduce the likelihood of acne breakouts,” says Chin.
If you have questions or concerns about whether an ingredient you use in your skincare routine is comedogenic or non-comedogenic, you should consult a board-certified dermatologist.
