These treatments will eradicate laugh lines fast.
There’s no need to frown about so-called “smile lines,” the telltale wrinkles that can run from the bottom of your nose down the sides of your mouth. Smile lines (technically called nasolabial folds) can be attractive and aren’t actually a bad thing — they can be a sign of a happy life filled with joyful moments and big grins. But that doesn’t change the fact that some folks want to be rid of them.
We asked Institute Beauty Lab scientists, top dermatologists, and a makeup artist for the scoop on smile lines, including causes and the best treatments, from over-the-counter topicals like serums and creams to doctor’s office options such as fillers and Botox, and even how to get rid of smile lines with makeup.
When do smile lines appear?
You’re probably not going to see smiles lines as a teenager or in your 20s, but “with time, you start to lose collagen and elastin in your skin,” says Mona Gohara, M.D. and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “It’s progressive, but it starts in your 30s and 40s.” On top of that, “as you repetitively use your facial muscles to smile, you’ll definitely start to notice some lines,” she explains.
What causes smile lines?
“We lose bone mass and our facial fat migrates downward as we get older, forming nasolabial folds,” says Dendy Engelman, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. Smile lines can also be caused by repetitive facial movements — yes, smiling (which can also contribute to crow’s feet lines around the eyes). “People definitely get lines around their mouth from normal facial expressions, there’s no question about it, but everyone is going to be a bit different based on genetics and sun damage,” Dr. Gohara says.
This does not mean you should stop smiling altogether to prevent wrinkles. “I am in no way advocating for people not to smile,” she stressed. Besides making you look more approachable and attractive (science has proved it!), studies have found that smiling can help you feel less stressed and anxious, more comfortable in awkward situations, and happier.
How can I get rid of smile lines with skincare at home?
For an over-the-counter fix, add a retinol product — serums, day cream, or night treatment — to your daily skincare regimen. “Retinol is a proven skincare ingredient that works over time to stimulate collagen production, which can help plump creases, counteracting the effects of volume loss and laxity in the cheeks that cause these lines,” explains GH Beauty Lab Director Birnur Aral, Ph.D.
“The Neutrogena day cream (right), a Seal star and GH Beauty Lab test winner, contains stable and fast-acting forms of retinol, which increased skin firmness by 9% in our Lab measurements with the Cutometer device and improved the look of some testers’ nasolabial folds after eight weeks of daily use.”
At-home laser treatments are another option. These devices use laser light to boost collagen production, smoothing wrinkles. Previously only offered in dermatologists’ offices, they are now available for home use. In GH Beauty Lab testing, the GH Beauty Award–winning Tria Age Defying Smooth Beauty Laser “decreased lines by 20% in four weeks,” Aral reports.
What is the best treatment for smile lines?
Visit a dermatologist for the fastest fix. Rather than an injectable wrinkle relaxer, like Botox, injectable wrinkle fillers are often used for nasolabial folds, to “fill” the area where volume has been lost. Your doctor will likely suggest an injectable filler like Juvéderm or Radiesse (made of hyaluronic acid or calcium hydroxylapatite, both of which naturally occur in our bodies) that can fill lines immediately and have year-long results, Dr. Gohara says.
To reduce deep-set lines, Dr. Engelman recommends a combination of injectable fillers like Juvéderm Voluma and Vollure XC, which subtly lift cheeks and ‘fill’ folds both immediately and longer-term (results last up to 18 months). The cost: About $1,000+ per treatment, depending on location and number of treatments needed. But remember: “You don’t want them totally erased, because they’re a natural part of the face,” says Dr. Engelman.
How can I hide smile lines with makeup?
There are some makeup artist magic tricks that can help minimize the look of mouth lines. “The most important thing is to keep the area moist by prepping with a primer to ensure that your makeup doesn’t emphasize the creases,” says makeup artist Laura Geller, founder of Laura Geller Beauty. (Try GH Seal Star No7 Airbrush Away Primer, with hydrating hyaluronic acid; in GH Beauty Lab evaluations, 78% of women said it softened the look of their wrinkles.)
“Stay away from putting too much foundation or powder around the mouth, and choose makeup with light-reflecting qualities to diffuse imperfections,” she advises. As for lip color, avoid dark, opaque, or thick products, which can call attention to wrinkles. “Instead, line lips with a neutral shade to draw the eye to the shape of the mouth, then top with a soft hue like peach or pink,” Geller recommends. Try the GH Seal Star CoverGirl lip liner at left, which contains emollients shown to smooth lips.