Today, niacinamide is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare for a number of reasons. In this article, we’ll take a look at the various benefits of niacinamide for the skin, what’s in a serum, and how to use it, according to a respected board-certified dermatologist.
What is niacinamide? Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that’s essential for overall body and skin health. As nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Davin Lim explains, niacinamide is considered a very flexible active ingredient, explaining that it’s actually one of the easiest vitamins to use in skin care because it’s paired with vitamin C A (aka. It has a high tolerability rating and a very low frequency of side effects, even comparable to vitamin C (retinol).
Niacinamide serums are a great way to incorporate the many skin benefits of niacinamide into your daily skincare routine, as the serum (due to its lightweight formula) contains a high concentration of the active ingredient that can be released into the skin to specifically treat specific skin concerns.
What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin? According to nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Shereen Idriss, topical niacinamide can perform many different functions in the skin, such as:
Therefore, it is important to keep the skin intact and tightly bound by keratin to maintain the skin’s immune function and better protect us from external influences. Improves lipid barrier function:
Niacinamide can also increase the production of ceramides.
Ceramides are lipids that act as intercellular “glue,” holding skin cells together and keeping the skin soft and hydrated. Increased ceramide production allows the skin to retain its natural moisture, which can help treat certain conditions such as eczema.
Anti-inflammatory effects: Niacinamide has been shown to reduce the production of several mediators and molecules involved in the inflammatory process [1]. Therefore, it is suitable for acne patients with inflammatory
bumps and acne.
In addition, niacinamide can help reduce redness, which Dr. Lindane may be beneficial for people with rosacea. Regulates oil secretion: 2% Niacinamide has been shown to control the secretion and excretion of sebum, which is responsible for facial shine and the formation of acne.
Helps Even Skin Tone: There is evidence that niacinamide may be a potent compound that inhibits the transfer of melanin granules, also known as melanosomes, from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
While niacinamide alone may not be effective in combating hyperpigmentation, Dr. Shereene Idriss says it can enhance the effects of other ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, and arbutin to even out skin tone.
Anti-aging effects: Niacinamide has the potential to boost collagen synthesis in the skin and inhibit its breakdown, thereby providing a firming effect, improving surface texture, and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. So what can niacinamide be used for?
Due to its numerous proven biological functions in the skin, niacinamide may be suitable for all skin types to treat different skin concerns. Certified dermatologists use it for: Acne-prone skin and oily skin.
What is the optimal concentration to apply? Now that you know its many benefits and uses, you might think that the higher the concentration of niacinamide in your serum, the better, right? We tell you that this is not true.
Niacinamide serums come in concentrations ranging from 2% to 20%, with 10% being the most common. Nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Jenny Liu, however, notes that most of niacinamide’s benefits have been demonstrated at lower concentrations of 2% to 5%, with no studies showing any real benefit at higher concentrations.
In fact, Dr. Shereene Idris notes that “more isn’t enough,” and serums above 5% (like those in 10% formulas) can cause irritation, inflammation, and breakouts—all skin concerns you really want to treat.
In that order, most board-certified dermatologists recommend niacinamide serums with concentrations between 2% and 5%. Additionally, you can look for serums that already combine niacinamide with other ingredients to minimize the number of products you use to treat a specific skin concern, such as Dr. Shereene Idris recommends.
Dr. Shereene Idriss believes that these 10% serums are formulated with 1% zinc (like regular niacinamide serums), which acts as an anti-inflammatory agent, greatly reducing the inflammatory potential of niacinamide.
How to use a niacinamide serum properly? The great thing about niacinamide is that, according to Dr. Davin Lim, it combines well with most ingredients in skincare, such as retinol and vitamin C. In this regard, niacinamide serums can be used with other skincare products without any incompatibility.
– Should you use it in the morning or at night? It can be used in the morning and/or at night, but most people prefer to use niacinamide serums at night, which is what Dr. Davin Lim recommends.
– How is it applied? If you are new to niacinamide serums, Dr. Shereene Idriss recommends starting with one daily application to see how your skin reacts to this new product.
In your skincare routine, products should be used in a specific order. For a basic skincare routine, serums should be applied after cleansing and before moisturizing (in the morning or evening). Why in this order?
Nationally recognized dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah divides skin care into three phases:
1. Cleansing: It is important to remove dirt, sweat, oil, and impurities so that your skin remains clear and can enjoy the benefits of skincare products and active ingredients.
2. Treatment: This step uses serums rich in active ingredients to target your skin’s specific concerns.
3. Protect: In this step, moisturizer is applied to prevent moisture loss from the skin, followed by sunscreen (AM step) to protect the skin from UV rays. Niacinamide works on the skin during the treatment phase and then seals it with a layer of moisture, he explains. Conclusion: Niacinamide has been shown to be an excellent multifunctional active ingredient for all skin types, and can alleviate a wide range of skin concerns if well tolerated. While the hype is justified, it is important to know that concentration plays a key role, and dermatologists recommend choosing serums with concentrations between 2% and 5% to reap the most benefits from niacinamide without the risk of an inflammatory response. Scientific evidence supports its effectiveness and safety.
