I Still Have Blackheads—Does This Mean My Cleanser Isn’t Working?
You’ve got the perfect five-step skincare routine in place, an encyclopedic knowledge of which ingredients to use (and which to avoid), and you never go to bed with your makeup on. You’re doing everything right. And yet there they are, clear as day, staring back at you in the mirror: blackheads.
To be clear: There’s nothing wrong or shameful about having blackheads or other forms of acne. But when you’ve been fighting breakouts but don’t feel like you’re winning the battle, it’s natural to want to find out if there’s a weak spot in your arsenal—maybe like your cleansing products. We asked board-certified dermatologists Kseniya Kohets, MD, and Nazanin Saedi, MD, to break down everything from the causes of blackheads to how to tell if a cleanser is working and how to choose the best cleanser for your skin type. Read on to find out what they told us.
Meet the Experts
Kseniya Kobets, MD, MHS, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Westchester, NY.
Nazanin Saedi, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Plymouth Meeting Dermatology in Philadelphia.
What causes blackheads?
In simple terms, blackheads are clogged pores. “Blackheads are pores filled with excess oil, keratin, and makeup that, when exposed to air, turn black due to oxidation,” says Corbetts. “Excess oil production clogs pores, leading to various forms of acne, including blackheads,” Saedi explains. “The black discoloration is not caused by dirt, but by a chemical reaction between the clogged oil and the air.”
Blackheads typically appear as small black dots on and around the nose, usually in the T-zone, but can also appear on the chest, back, or ears.
Here’s How to Tell If Your Cleanser Is Too Weak
If your current skincare routine isn’t effectively clearing up blackheads and acne, it may be time to rethink your ingredients and consistency. However, before you decide your cleanser is too gentle and resort to something harsher, remember that stronger products aren’t always the solution. Kobets tells us that while feeling “squeaky clean” after cleansing can be satisfying, over-cleansing can dry out the skin and damage its barrier and microbiome.
“A consistent skincare routine with anti-acne ingredients is the best way to get clear skin,” says Saedi. Opt for products with restorative ingredients like glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and botanicals to soothe the skin and support a healthy microbiome.
What to look for in a cleansing product
According to Kobets, there are three key elements to consider when it comes to products that eliminate blackheads:
Formula: For oily skin, a foaming cleanser is ideal (although she advises caution with these formulas, as overuse can dry out the skin and damage the barrier and microbiome). Dry skin types may benefit from a hydrating cleanser.
Benzoyl peroxide: She recommends using benzoyl peroxide to remove excess oil, dirt, and makeup from oil glands. Be sure to use white towels in your skincare routine (this ingredient can bleach fabrics) and avoid expired products, as they can be irritants.
Consider salicylic acid: This is a top ingredient for preventing and treating blackheads. “This beta-hydroxy acid is lipophilic (fat-loving) and can penetrate deep into pores to remove oil,” she explains. “It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can improve skin tone and pigmentation.”
Kobets warns against using benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid at the same time to avoid irritation. If you also use a topical retinoid, be careful not to mix it with other active ingredients.
Berdie Tips
First, incorporate benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid into your routine a few times a week, especially if you have sensitive skin.
More Tips for Treating Blackheads
Use a retinoid: “Using a retinoid daily can help,” Kobets says. Plus, “it can often be combined with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to reduce greasiness and pore size,” she adds.
Watch your moisturizer: Kobets also recommends cutting back on heavy moisturizers, especially those with dimethicone, as they can cause oil buildup and constipation.
Try a topical treatment: “Topical treatments for acne can also be helpful—just make sure to use them as directed,” she adds.
Consider light therapy: Another option is blue and red light therapy masks, which can help clear active acne and reduce redness and inflammation with regular use. “These masks are an expensive proposition, so only invest if you’re really committed,” Saedi advises.
Book an in-office treatment: Depending on the severity of your acne, you may also opt for in-office treatments, such as a hydrofacial, chemical peels, or laser treatments, to reduce oil production and improve skin texture.
Conclusion
It’s easy to over (or under) your skincare routine in an effort to remove blackheads. But it’s important not to lose sight of the goal: “The goal is to cleanse the skin and remove excess oil while maintaining the skin barrier,” Saedi advises. If blackheads persist despite your best efforts, she recommends consulting a dermatologist for a customized acne treatment plan. She also reminds us that acne is a normal skin condition, and treating it takes time and persistence. “Effective acne treatment requires patience,” she says. “But with proper care, you can keep them under control.”
