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The Dermatologist-Approved Ingredient That Fights Acne and Oily Skin in 2024
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The Dermatologist-Approved Ingredient That Fights Acne and Oily Skin in 2024

21 December 2024

Whether you’re a skincare fanatic or just love drinking lots of fluids, there are a few ingredients you probably can’t live without in your morning and nighttime routine: Vitamin C protects against environmental aggressors (like pollution), glycolic acid helps you ward off environmental aggressors, exfoliates and reduces blemishes or dark spots, and retinol is renowned for its ability to reduce fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, and a variety of other skin concerns.

But there’s another ingredient that’s raved about by skin experts, and while it’s not as well-known as the ones mentioned above, it’s an impressive all-rounder. That’s where niacinamide comes into play. What is niacinamide? And what effects does it have on the skin? “Niacinamide is essentially vitamin B3,” Dr. Ewoma Ukeleghe, medical aesthetic physician and founder of SKNDOCTOR, tells R29, and there are a ton of benefits to incorporating it into your daily routine.

“Clinical studies have shown that niacinamide can reduce hypersebum production (excessive oiliness of the skin), refine pores and fine lines, and keep the skin barrier intact. This, in turn, prevents water loss from the skin and limits dryness and irritation, such as itching,” according to consultant dermatologist Dr. Niacinamide’s sebum-reducing properties can also indirectly help treat mild acne, says Dr Anjali Mahto.

But that’s not all. “Topical niacinamide has been shown to reduce sun-induced redness and is said to have anti-inflammatory properties,” she wrote in a recent Instagram post, adding environmental protection to her long list of benefits. But niacinamide is not a replacement for sunscreen, so always wear sunscreen during the day.

How to use niacinamide?

Professional aesthetician Kate Kerr notes that niacinamide is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin types and can be used at any time of the day, including mornings and evenings. However, it works best with formulas that are left on the skin, such as: B. Applying a serum or toner after cleansing. Kate recommends a dermatologist-favorite product: SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3, £105.

If that’s out of your budget, try The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, £5. Dr. Ewoma also reviews Paula’s Choice Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster (£40) and Glossier Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum (£24), which contains 5% niacinamide. Whether to add a moisturiser to your serum is up to you.

If your skin is acne-prone, experts recommend cutting back on your skincare use. So you might want to skip the serum and use a moisturiser instead. If you’re looking for a nighttime moisturiser, try Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Day Cream SPF 15 (£18) or Cetaphil Healthy Radiance Night Cream (£13.49), which contain niacinamide.

Interestingly, Dr. Ewoma highlights that research shows that using niacinamide before using retinol (which is often associated with skin sensitivity, including peeling and redness) can improve skin tolerance. So if your skin reacts to retinol, the first thing you should ask about is niacinamide.

Dr. Ewoma also points out that niacinamide is a great skincare ingredient to use before your period. “I personally like to use niacinamide a week or two beforehand. It helps prevent breakouts and manage the increased sebum production that many women experience during this phase of their menstrual cycle.” Check the ingredient list of your chosen product. For best results, niacinamide should ideally be included as the third or fifth ingredient.

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